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update 06-may-2010

This is the English version of my UN-IPTF Tuzla station site. Here you'll find a compilation of my experiences in Bosnia when
I was working there as a UN police monitor from august 2000 till February 2001.
This story is based on the letters and e-mails which I wrote to my family, friends and colleague´s.
Also I put in most of the pictures I took in Bosnia. And also (most of the Sarajevo pictures) from my colleague Rob and
a few I ´borrowed´ from the internet.
Ofcourse I tried to avoid making writing mistakes. If I´ve made real blunders
somewhere please send me a mail. If you just think that my English is not to good, think that
it is probably much better then your Dutch ;-), otherwise you would be reading the Dutch version of this site.
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29-08-2000, Greetings from Bosnia Hello all, As you can see we´ve got e-mail now Everything went well until now. The evening before departure we had to report on Eindhoven military airbase. After the formal goodbye´s to family and chief´s we had some time and drinks with our rotation. The Marechaussee even granted us one (1) free drink! The next morning, the 15th, we were taken by coach to the Eindhoven Military Air Terminal. After passport control and check in we had to wait in the departure hall. They even found a general to give us a motivation speech before departing. I never knew we were that good! The plane was a Hercules C-130. This is a noisy plane with very uncomfortable jump seats. Luckily we had earplugs. After a few hours of flying (great view out of the plane, this turboprop type of plain fly´s at 3 km only) we arrived on Sarajevo International Airport, where we were picked up by our contigent´s senior officer, captain Rob, and some UN oficials. Arrival in Sarajevo started with beautiful warm weather.
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Departures & tarmac
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![]() Our ´first class´ seats. Plenty of leg space! ![]()
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Hotel Palas![]()
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The following days we spent taking tests ( :-) an Egyptian officer tried to tell us what a computer was and how to use it.
Before he even started his lesson everyone was already exploring the PC´s contents or playing solitaire on it. A very
interesting lesson. ), doing our drivers exam (zigzag 100 meter forward, park backwards, drive again 200 meters, emergency stop,
back to the start and later a ride trough Sarajevo) and listening to a lot of persons who all had something to tell about Bosnia,
the UN and the peace agreement. In these days we also found out about important things as Sarajevsko Pivo (this is nòt Alma :-) Slibovitch and several tasty Yugoslavian dishes (Cevapcici) Sarajevo is a nice city with a reasonable amount of bars and restaurants. Several evenings we went to the old city centre and enjoyed there the parade of local beauties, walking up and down the Kourso street. They are wearing dresses which are absolutely not the dresses you expect to see in muslim teritory :-) |

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On the last training day UN told us to which station we would go. My Region was Tuzla. The next day, tuesday, everyone for Tuzla region was picked up by a small bus. After a long ride on a beautiful mountain road we arrived in the late afternoon in Tuzla. My ´buddy´ and I were assigned to Tuzla station After being welcomed by Andrzej SZYDLIK, the station commander, we were send on house hunting. After seeing several houses we ended up at the house of a Bosnian police officer where we rented the basement apartment for 700,- Deutsch Mark (€ 350,--)/ month all-in. Only the cooking we had to do by ourselves. Now, afterwards, I can say we made a quite reasonable choice. |
Views along the road from Sarajevo to Tuzla
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Untill now I only worked for one day. The works is VERY MUCH doing nothing and waiting and drive
a little bit through town to check on your
Tuzla 2nd local police station (LPS2)
You won´t get tired here. I was shown the way and the work by a Jordanian captain with 1 week IPTF experience who understands
not much of the work. (I'm sorry Sir). But for $90,-- a day, we keep smiling.
Saturday we went to the Dutch SFOR base at Busovaca to collect a TV set and a satellite receiver
which are fully operational now. So now we can follow all Dutch TV-stations and many others here.
A few hours a day you spend in a local police office to speak and check with
its chiefs and officers. Don´t be surprised to find out that local police is sometimes still corrupt. It is
here a big problem to pay them their salary in time. Sometimes they don´t get paid for over two months. They too
have families to feed.
Regularly you have to make inquiries for the IPTF human rights department and the rest of the
day you can fill (almost always) to your own opinion. I used to drive around in my area of responsibility as much and
as far as possible.
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In the summer season we also went often to ´the Korso´ for our coffee break, also enjoying the lively view. |
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When you go around in town you will see everywhere
Little shops everywhere where you can buy all kind
of food and drinks and in many shops there is a wide choice of cheap illegal music and computer CD´s. When you walk in town by your self, you´ll find that you mostly will find somebody who is speaking (few) English or (few more) German language. |
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Tuzla, September 09, 2000 Hallo All, All so far so good here in Bosnia. As I already told in my last e-mail I ended up together with Geert vd Werken, who you probably know from the Schiphol Police Unit, in Tuzla at IPTF Tuzla station . Tuzla is in the North-east of - and is the third city of Bosnia-Herzegovina. It is as small as the fore instance the Dutch town of Hoofddorp near Schiphol. It is situated in the Muslim-Croatian Federation and the living standards are reasonable. You can buy almost anything here for, at least in our eyes, fair prices. Life for the people her seams not too bad. Most houses are looking well maintained and there are driving many as good as new cars. Also you see a lot of people with cell phones. Our Dutch phones are also working here. The car driving mentality here is as bad as in Amsterdam or Paris and you need eyes in the back of your head So it is not strange that some of our colleagues from quieter countries are driving around sweating like hell. (Sometimes you wonder how some people ever past the driving test.) |
RHQ Tuzla front & ´garden´ Tuzla station
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We rented an apartment in
Our accommodation was in the villa of a local policeman.
It is a big house with a lot of ground around and on it it has a big parking lot which can be closed.
The man had when we arrived a young Doberman walking around but that, sadly, has died. In the apartment we both have a bedroom for ourselves, a living room, a kitchen a shower with bath and a big hall. There is a central heating system that will go on when temperature drops in the autumn. Our landlord is living in two floors apartment above us with a living room all over half our apartment and the garage. It is very large and has a lot of luxury in it. The top floor has a big roofed terrace and can also be rented (but is not). With the satellite dish I mentioned in last mail we can receive about 90 TV stations en 60 different radio stations. This is much better than the satellite dish that came with the apartment. With that we received only some ten German stations in bad quality. We cannot receive Bosnian TV. For that you need a special aerial. As a luxury we have all day streaming water in our house. The water company is only providing services from 05.00 till 09.00 and from 16.00 till 19.00, but our landlord installed a tank from 1 m³ in his cellar with an electric pump on it. |
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The first one and a half week here it was very hot. There was a heat wave and temperatures were
between 40 and 43 degrees Celsius by daytime. At night it remained over 25 degrees Later it cooled a little and now we´re having real Dutch weather with one dry day next day rain, fog in the morning and temperatures from maximum about 17 degrees. Time to wear a coat again. Somewhere in the hills above Tuzla there is a Lake Modrac near Tuzla, a reservoir to be precise, about 10 kilometres from here. If the weather will clear I´ll try to go there and have a look. |
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The station is, together with the IPTF Regional Headquarters (RHQ) and some support units,
situated at a
entrance road to the UNIPTF facility
on which there are also 2 USA military support bases. Pithily there
is no tax-free (PX) shop there. Also Eagle Base does only now and then allow non USA citizens. It is said that in the past it happened to many times that the now rich officers from very poor countries came shopping and departed with a complete truckload. For their own people the shop was then sold out. |
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So for our tax-free shopping we have to go to Sarajevo, a 120 kilometre mountain ride.
(The Norwegian PX). We Dutch are also permitted to visit the German SFOR PX.
Andrzej SZYDLIK, our station commander, is from Poland. He is quit relaxed and does not like the have any quarrels.
The deputy station commander is German Dirk. He is the one who is mostly running the station.
We are very friendly to each other. One of his favourite expressions, when things are going wrong
again is "Who cares!"
Our station is about thirty people. About ten of them are from Western Europe, the rest is from
all over the world, e.g. Turkey, Jordan, Pakistan, Egypt, Indonesia, Bangla-Desh, India and some
more of that distant countries. Also there are some ten Bosnian language assistants
The station is build of a series of sea containers, inside there are 2 small and 2 larger rooms and
a hallway. For the IPTF officers and the language assistants there are two computers available on which
everyone is f...ing around. Everyone here thinks he/she is a specialist. Every week the
computer department is here to repair the programmes. The PC´s are working as stand alone´s but
you can if you want connect them to a LAN network. You have then a private disk space and
external e-mail extra.
This personal external e-mail is, by the way, a luxury which not every station has. Usually there
is only one account for the station, but as we are located next to the RHQ we are in this
special luxury situation.
Tuzla 2nd Local Police Station, my station
The work you have to do is very much depending on which police station you are monitoring. Geert
has two smaller village stations with both a reasonable number of open cases. I´m monitoring
one of the two Tuzla police stations together with my French team leader (sgt) Lydie PANIZ (It´s good working
with her!) and a Jordanian captain Ahmed and a (not always the same) Bosnian language assistant.
It is a police station where there is a fair amount of work, but until now I did not see much
´spectacular cases´.
The work is for 90% in dayshift from 08.30-17.30, two or tree times in
the month an evening shift and 2 (1/2 time awake 1/2 sleeping) nightshifts. In the nightshift
you are also acting as regional operations.
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The main part of our job is monitoring how local police is working, a lot of talking with all kind of people, drinking coffee with the chief and deputies of police and meanwhile give advises, and share ideas and opinions. Monitoring the police
Every Friday the police have to provide statistics about all they have done in that week. The only work in writing we have to produce is incident-reports when some special has happened or after a request of the investigations unit a follow-up report on a specified incident (fol.rep: what did the police, is it investigated and how, has there been made a protocol, did they send the case to the prosecutor and did he act on it, a.s.o.) Soon the earea of responsibility of the 2nd LPS will be extended with a large part in the inner-city of Tuzla, including the university, the sports centre and the football stadium. An other of our tasks is, several times a week, to be present when evictions take place. This is when people are living illegally in the houses of people who fled in the war (mostly Serbs) and are now reclaiming their property. The city council then has to arrange this. We the have to watch that the police and the housing authority are acting correctly. Practically they are always doing so because a lot of the people to be expelled are people they know. Next thing that is happening is that the Serb quickly redecorates his house, and then sells it again for a good price and runs back with his pocket filled with money to Serbia or Srpska where he is living in an other house now. We picked up some prices here. A house like the one we are living in here will do about DM 150.000,-- (€ 75.000,--). If I compare it to the Dutch housing market it will do there, I estimate, € 750.000,--. Also we have to provide escorts when people from Srpska have to testify in court. They always claim to be afraid to come alone with the police. You have to follow the car of the court-police to the inter-ethnic boundary line, there the police takes over the suspect from their Srpska colleagues and we take over the escort from our local IPTF colleagues. Next we drive to the court building in Tuzla, wait for a few hours, and when they are finished the whole story the other way around. Hrvatske Brigade, the main street near our accomodation
Sometimes there isn´t any language assistant available. In that case I usually go with other colleagues to one of the ten other police stations to see how they are fulfilling their task. When there is nothing to do (often) I take many times a car and go driving around in Tuzla and surroundings ´to learn to know my area of responsibility´ and to have something better to do than sit and do nothing in the station. In the station you always have to watch your car keys carefully because some people are always as quick and as long as possible disappeared . . . . . . It is also necessary always to check your car completely, because some drivers create (small) accidents without reporting it. Due to UN regulations is the last driver personally responsible! Until now I already noticed damage twice! I always prefer to take one of the old pickups, they are already so damaged that no one cares if there is another scratch. Food is reasonably. There is not to much variety and it is not so much taste, but quality is good. Also in the restaurants where we usually eat is the menu often short and almost everywhere the same (cost 2,5 - 5 euro)
Everywhere on the roadsides you find little shops where you can buy food and drinks. Some are open for almost 24 hours. That´s easy. Although the local Tuzlanska pivo is good we usually prefer to buy our Heineken or Carlsberg and our whiskey in the PX. It is a little cheaper there (famous grouse DM 18,--/0.7 ltr) Regularly there are all kind of party´s with, of course, a lot of booze and fun. ( But then I don´t drive!!) Finally my next leave will be end of this month. I´ll fly from Sarajevo Airport (SJJ) by MALEV via Budapest to Schiphol. That is it for now. Finally our address here is: telephone: 00-387-35-280.002 P/a Nermin SULJETOVIC,(speaks German) 18c Hrvatske Brigade 158 75000 Tuzla Bosnia i Herzegovina (See this in Google-Earth) When we are in the station dial: 00-387-35-283400 = UN-Tuzla switchboard, and ask in English for UN-IPTF Tuzla station. You will get the duty officer. Ask him/her to call me (beware: sometimes they are speaking fluently Bangladeshi- or Pakistani-English. Which is, if you´re not used to it, quite difficult to understand .) OK, all the best for now and hopefully till writing or e-mailing Regards Hans Station life
Tuzla, October 15, 2000 Hallo all, At this moment I´m working very hard for the boss. I´m sitting dressed in my sportshorts only on the terrace of my apartment here Next to me there are a big cup of coffee (Hey, don´t laugh, I´m working!), a radio playing some music and a terribly noising handset (portofoon). The temperature is about 30 degrees Celsius again, real bad weather for October. But ....... I know, ...... somebody has to do the dirty jobs :-) Today there was only one interpreter for àll the station and he has gone with an other colleague. So today I have to keep myself busy again. The first leave last month is already passed and I´m getting used to the situation here fully again. The work is still so tiring that you have to look for it your self. If you would it is possible to have every day days like I have today. Luckily it is also possible to find work if you do want to work. I´ve got a promotion! Now I´m as a team leader responsible over the monitors of 2nd Tuzla-LPS. My giant team consists beside of me of a Jordanian, an Indian and an Egyptian (resp. 2 captains and a major). Recently I managed to teach all of them the basic principals of computing. Now they can practise by them self´s and type and send e-mails all over Bosnia and the world. One of them even managed to process a typed patrol report of 5 lines!! But this week he will have to do more practise by explaining why he wrote that an eviction has taken place without any problems where he was present; but just now the station got a complaint that the eviction had not taken place and that IPTF was not present. But for the rest my officers are very keen. Only you can see that they are only used to work at a desk. But, I still think it´s strange that they have so little computer skills! Last week we had to check on an Orthodox Church. There was a holy mass for some special occasion and the regional bishop had come for that. There came about 70 busses with Orthodox Serbs/Srpska´s, a platoon of 100 Russian SFOR with only 4 MP´s to take part in it. And that I had to watch, together with 3 muslim colleagues and same languages assistant. Nightlife is still not much here. The only reasonable clubs are regularly raided by police and IPTF. In a big razzia the clubs are surrounded and visitors and staff are controlled. So, not thè place to be. In Tuzla town we´ve found a few places but it´s not much. Our station commander and the deputy are both replaced next week. The station commander has got a new job for the UN tribunal and the deputy´s mission is finished. Likely an English officer will be our next commander. In the mean time also my college Geert has arrived at the house. He´s also very busy today and he came to sweat out a little (Pffff still 30 degrees). For now first lunch and a small, cold beer and then try to stay busy till four o´clock (and not get sunburned). So, this is all the gossip for the moment This afternoon I shall try to e-mail this letter and now I´m going to enjoy the sun (which moved to the other half of the terrace, so the wire of the laptop is getting to short to work) a little longer. Greetings to all, till next mails/letters. Tuzla, Sunday November 19, 2000 A month has gone since last letter and by now we have passed the first half of this mission. I´m still not convinced about the usefulness of this mission (or even less then when we started) The work is still not much and the people here are still wanting to kill each other as soon as the UN is leaving (So just being here is maybe the good thing of this mission), the police is capable for their duties but - because of the low salary´s? - corrupt. But we keep smiling and counting down. The days that we càn work, I mostly fill with visits to Tuzla 2nd Local Police station. Much talking and joking with the 3 deputies and sometimes the commander. And every time again drinking little cups of liquid tar (or Turkish coffee as they call it). Also, when possible, I go and drive around in or outside Tuzla to fill the time. At the end of the afternoon I go to the station to do the paperwork. Some things I saw walking around in Tuzla
The third month I started with almost two weeks of leave. Then a few days like I just told. On November 3th the rotation before us got their UN medal so we had a daytrip to Sarajevo for a change. Now preparations for the elections started. No one was allowed to take leave anymore. As a result of that we had to do the little work we had with 5 man in one car Also this week the PX on Tuzla RHQ was finally opened. It is a few containers big building with a reasonable assortment of dry and tinned food, soft-alcohol and liquors, luxery and souvenir clothes and some electronics. For cheap booze you still better go to Sarajevo to the PX on the German SFOR base. By now the station commander and the deputy have changed. We now have British Tony WHITTAKER as chief and Eric MALBRANCQ from France as second in command. They both look ok to work with. On November 11 the elections, which the international community feared so much, were held. As the locals predicted, everything went without any problem The better part of this day was that we had to go to several small villages where we never went before, because local police was guarding the polling stations. In twelve ours we visited our 10 polling stations 3 times. Every time stop for a few minutes and on to the next. Now I also understand also why all the autobusses, donated by the Netherlands, are looking so bad. When I was with some difficulty driving on a bad, muddy goat path with my pickup suddenly an autobus was coming from the opposite direction, doing a scheduled service there. As it was a very narrow path I had to drive backwards for a few 100 meters through the mud to let the bus pass. And Hurray!!!!, Geert got bad news!!!. By doctors orders he immediately has to quit smoking. Worse for him is that he has a bacteria on his lungs and has to use antibiotics for a week. November 14 we´ve got permission to drive to Sarajevo to wave goodbye to our rotation 11 and to welcome rotation 13. For us this means we´ve past half time. Also this day we had to pick up at the UN MHQ a second hand Nissan 4-runner (UN-55569) to replace a car that was wrecked half a year ago. And we can feel much safer now. USA-SFOR had last week a little exercise. They were playing that there was something going on on their next door base and a helicopter with marines came to their assistance. All went very smootly (the second try). All marines quickly disembarked and took firing positions around the heli. But then they discovered (geeh, why are there so many white UN-cars and no camouflaged army vehicles around here????) that they were not on the USA supply base, but on the UN base :-))))) They left quickly, to make an other try next door :-) Later I heard that our (USA) Regional Commander was rather pissed about this mistake. Further more there was not much to do. The weather this passed weeks was reasonable. Mostly dry and by day some sun with a moderate temperature. At the beginning of the week we had almost night frost, now it is a little warmer again. But, as this is my off-duty weekend, it is raining outside ofcourse. (In comparation with Holland we are here lucky with the weather. It is much worse there). OK, this is it for now. See you all next time. |
The last few kilometres near Tuzla I got caught in a very dense fog. I hardly could see
the front of my car and sometimes a little the lights of the car in front of me. That last few
kilometres took almost as long as the rest of the journy back. :-( The closer I came to
Tuzla the foggier it became. It always was so, because the powerplant exhausts warm wet air. And when temperatures
become cold it gets easily very foggie.
When I finaly arrived at Tuzla station the evening prayer had already been and a little
party was going on. So after a long day: beer & pizza!!!
Now and then we visit the sports stadium in our area of responsibility. When there are
events or sports matches the police is guarding that and regulating traffic and we have
to check on that too.
I use almost every evening some time to send mails to home and my colleagues. I´m very
glad we´ve a personal (UN) e-mail address here. It is very important to have good contacts
with home.
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When demotivation sometimes strikes I think of a photo I recently saw on CNN. Shown was a
documentary about a photographer who was working in Sarajevo just after the war in 1992.
The photo has been taken at Christmas Eve just after the war has ended in Sarajevo. A little girl standing on a street corner
with next to her a little table with her dolls. She is selling her most loved toys to be
able to get some food. If only we can avoid that that is happing again, we have not been here completely for nothing ...... |
(Photo by Reza )
Here Reza tells about this photo. |
The end of January, finaly the prommised snow. Although it's not very much.
Also between Tuzla & Sarajevo it had been snowing.
And than ...... only 8 more days.

The September 2000 - February 2001 Tuzla teamAndrzej SZYDLIK (POL) Dirk POHLMAN (GER) Razzeque CHEEMAA (PAK) Yevgenia SOKOLOVA (UKR) Shaheen BARLAS (PAK) Mamun CHOWDHURY (BAN) Eric MALBRANCQ (FRA) Mohammad ALQUADAH (JOR) Shabbir KHAN (PAK) Syed KAZMI (PAK) Morten BILLSTROEM (DK) Thomas FARREL (IRL) Andre RESEP (INS) Lars ANESTRAND (SWE) Aymen WARDANI (EGY) Oliver FEHNER (GER) Lydie PANIZ (FRA) Ahmed QAWASMEH (JOR) Hans VERHOOG (NET) Tony WHITTAKER (UK) Jan-Erik ANDERSON (SWE) Hasan BAYTEKIN (TUR) Anthony KELLIHER (IRE) Laszlo URI (HUN) Geerit VD WERKEN (NET) Pal FELEGYHAZY (HUN) Ali DIKICI (TUR) Bhanulal DAS (BAN) Jabinson PURRBA (INS) Carsten LITT (GER) Allan LAEGTESKOV (DK) From later date:
My friend from Ghana Eric BOADY
and his chief Samuel Kagya DARKO.Tracy NEWMAN (UK) Hura Abimanyu RUSLAN (IND) The two crazy Spanish ;-) Oscar GARCIA (SPA) & Fran CAAMAñO (SPA) Reinhold PRUNNER & Rainer BACHLER (AUT) Dileep S. RATHORE (India) Moustafa RIAD (Egypt)
Regrettably I´ve no complete list with the names of the colleagues who
joined us later in the year. If anyone knows their names, don´t hesitate to send me an e-mail From RHQ Tuzla:
Susanne DAUER (GER) |
and our highly apriciated language assistantsAhmo BALIC Alenka TANOVIC Alma AHMEDBEGOVIC Alma CARLSON-MASIC Almira ARNAUTOVIC-MURADBEGOVIC Emir ATIKOVIC Hasan NUHANOVIC Meliha KADIC Mujo HODZIC Lejla HADZIHRUSTIC Nermin KLAPIC Nihad ALIHODZIC Sandra EL-HIJAZEN Tatjana ("Tanja") ALIHODZIC-TOMIC Semso JAHIC From RHQ:
Adisa SOKOLOVIC Some of us can also be found now on the - UN-IPTF Tuzla Facebook site. Also UNIPTF:
- UN-IPTF Vlasenica Facebook site.- UN-IPTF Brcko Facebook site. - UNMIBH Facebook site. |
| 4 runners (Toyota) | Pick-ups (Suzuki / Nissan) | Minibus |
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| UN-00522 (station commander) | UN-52479 (ex Cambodja, to be replaced) | UN-01736 |
| UN-00510 | UN-03509 (ex Cambodja, to be replaced) | |
| UN-00519 (Tuzla LPS-2) | ||
| UN-00520 | During the mission (Sept.? 2000) our | |
| UN-55308 (crashed) | station got 2 new Nissan pick-ups: | |
| UN-55408 (crashed) | UN-01533 | |
| UN-55569 (replacment car (October 2000) | UN-????? |
In spring 2008 I received this link
The building we knew as RHQ UNIPTF Tuzla is now restored and in use with the Austrian Bundesheer as the "EUFOR Austrian National Element".
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In 2009 there has been a webcam in Tuzla centre for a short time. It has been in 3 locations. I´ve seen the Kourso, the Salt Lake and Slobode. Try here if the cam is online today. |
| Another site I found on the internet. In the second half Rick Falcona shows a lot of photos (1997/1998) showing the results of etnic cleansing just outside of Tuzla. |
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